“I’ve been excited about it for a whereas: South Korea’s atmosphere fits me,” Nicolas Ghesquière shared in a statement correct sooner than Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall explain, which unfolded in Seoul on Saturday evening. Eschewing town’s palatial gardens and more evident venues, Ghesquière quandary his stage on Jamsugyo, a humble pedestrian path that hangs beneath the Banpo Bridge, the place commuters inappropriate between town’s north and south banks. A submersible construction, it disappears below the river at some level of the summer season monsoon. “It’s a feat of civil engineering that creates the looks of disappearance-reappearance,” Ghesquière added. “For Seoulites, it’s a living monument. It’s an spirited order to stage a explain.”
Ghesquière has usually famed his fondness for The Hosta 2006 fear film by Bong Joon-ho that stars his dear just correct friend Doona Bae, in which the Han River is a notable participant. As in that film, one plan of unease flitted down the slide within the hour main as much as the explain, as company shivered in their seats, defenseless against the frigid wind blowing in from the river. There secure been no heat lamps and a shortage of blankets, as men and females in monogrammed leather-primarily based began hoarding them in stacks. Very like Ghesquière to mix the trimmings of luxury with the grit of the aspect street.
The scenography modified into entrusted to Squid Sport director Hwang Dong-Hyuk, who showered projections of amber gentle that flickered like transferring water over the naked bridge. The thrum of a long way-off drums and whale sounds—or monster sounds—extra lent to 1 plan of disquiet, till Hoyeon Jung opened the divulge to a high-octane Korean garage rock tune. There would possibly be repeatedly the dawdle to pander to the locals with an inauthentic nod to their broken-down robe or assorted gimmicks. Ghesquière neatly resisted that temptation and persevered to revisit the dwelling codes he has spent the final decade refining. “Accurate like this very symbolic bridge, there’s a backward and ahead, intersecting passages, a combination of moments,” he acknowledged.
As with the bridge, there modified into an aerodynamic nature to the hooded tops and bodysuits that clung to the frame à la Irma Vep, and these aspects of sport performed effectively with the easy solid colours and silhouettes that harkened lend a hand to Ghesquière’s early days at the dwelling. With the full fuss over light luxury of gradual, there modified into a fraction of it here within the pinstripe and quilted leather-primarily based fits, the mod lambskin coats, and muted variations of the LV stamp—a micro-monogram as a checkerboard print pant, a crepe wool bodysuit that plunges toward the navel aged with a horsebit belt. A splash of sparkle and flou remained, particularly within the closing passage of elevated loungewear which integrated a striped twill Mandarin collar shirt embroidered with glimmering crystal beads and tied with a swinging belt of metal monogram vegetation.
“Admire a more or much less diplomatic race, a Louis Vuitton caravanserai that comes to South Korea to divulge diversified chapters in its history,” as Ghesquière place it, the explain learn like a dialogue between Paris and Seoul, which has develop to be a pivotal participant within the global luxury market and the place the broad homes are within the meanwhile waging a turf struggle. Very like Dior, who took its pre-fall sequence to Mumbai final month, Vuitton is intent on upping the stakes in turning the pre-season into an extravagant destination that equals resort. As the fountains along the Banpo Bridge went off for the finale, sending jets of water arching into the Han River as Hoyeon Jung walked past a entrance row stuffed with Okay-pop stars, one felt that Louis Vuitton had made its state pretty succinctly.